Un Mes

WTF California?!?! I suppose I owe you some credit for having the common sense to elect the only real viable ticket for President, but what’s up with passing the marriage ban? Stop acting like a bunch of Texans for Christ’s sake. We’re supposed to set a good example for the red(neck) states, not act like one ourselves. Come on, it’s not the 50’s anymore. (...and please no gibberish about protecting the "institution" of marriage -- like it has any integrity left. And for the record, the states that allow gay marriage have the lowest divorce rates.) …Ughh! …at least the barrage of political hype (a.k.a lies) is over with for a while.

Oh yeah… Peru.

Peru still here and carrying on as it always has – very slowly. The concept of time has somehow completely missed this part of the world. As my Dad says, “everything in Latin America is merely a suggestion.” Be it a stoplight, school attendance, appointment, whatever. IF someone actually shows up, it will surely be at least half an hour late. …but more often then not they just won’t show. The country’s got serious issues if I’m the most punctual person here. I’ve gone from lowering my expectations to just having none at all. … and I always bring a book. However, sometimes I think maybe time is not absent, just very abstract. Maybe the people here believe that time is more than the ridgid linear theory that we subscribe to? Maybe to them it’s a multidimensional entity beyond human control, foretold to them centuries ago by aliens at Nasca? (Or maybe I’m giving too much credit to a people who think cleaning their floors with gasoline is a good idea?)

So the big news in Yantaló is the construction of a new bridge – el Puente de Los Angeles. They’ve been fighting it out with the neighboring city of Moyobamba for a while now, which prefers the bridge within the city limits. However, Yantalo and the surrounding communities (casitas) want the bridge closer to them because it would bring an abundance of new business and commercial development through their region. It would be a tremendous benefit to the area and its struggling economy. Anyway, last week we marched from Yantaló to the Government Offices in Moyo. (Moyobamba, by the way, is the capital of the Department of San Martin -- which would equal a state in the US). So, we walked about 8 kms, until met by a line of police at the gates of our destination. Then a large group of folks from Moyobamba showed up as well. It was kind of exciting. Both groups were yelling at each other, over the police blockade. For a moment I thought it might end up like the Latin version of The Warriors, but ended up more like West Side Story – anticlimactic. I just stood in the middle, and took as many pictures as I could. It was obvious the police didn’t know what to make of the crazy gringo who ignored their orders to get back. But they had bigger problems to deal with and left me alone. After all was said and done however, a few important peeps from the government came out and spoke with the leaders of each party. Apparently we won, so now we just wait for the proper bureaucratic approval before construction begins. Lord knows how long that will be. (See paragraph above.)

Work here is sporadic at best for now. Most of the time my students don’t show up for their English lessons. But the ones that do are improving and very appreciative. I think word is spreading also, as I’m getting more people asking if they can attend. Since most people are working during the day, I’ve had the best luck with my night classes, which I prefer anyway. I’m still way more productive after the sun goes down. Even the roosters, screaming niños, and blaring cumbia at 6AM have not broken my ability to sleep in. Of course they think I’m crazy for going to sleep at midnight or one, but they don’t know how peaceful it is when it all winds down for the night. It’s just me and the sounds of the jungle. The solitude is truly beautiful.

I was delighted to get some new assignments this past week from Luis, our Foundation’s President. Fortunately they're all construction related, as I’m presently working at my maximum limit of child exposure. Like the dogs and chickens, kids run wild in the streets here. (Kinda like shopping at Walmart or Target in the ghetto. …without the chickens.) Luckily I’m only teaching English to adults, but I’m at the school everyday for a while too -- either observing a class or answering questions before volleyball practice. But I’m excited about undertaking the remodeling of the bathrooms and building a kitchen at each of the two schools. In addition, we are putting a live-fence around the perimeter of the new clinic site. I certainly enjoy the freedom and time I have now, but look forward to more tangible tasks to work on.

I’ve also recently discovered the hip discotheque in Moyobamba -- Papillon. Contrary to relative spots in the US, this place is both popular and actually pretty cool. Of course anyone who knows me knows that I will surely die without music. And that I’m also very much an elitist when it comes to judging the crap that passes for music in the US. However I really like the music here so far. I’ve always loved the Latin beats and percussion. Granted they have their favorites, which are overplayed, but are for the most part tolerable. Papillon plays a mixture of cumbia, meringue, reggaeton, and house music, with an occasional 80’s classic. The DJ’s mix ‘em pretty well too. What’s best is that the people actually go there to dance and have fun, not to just to be seen standing there in their fancy clothes. And people are nice. What a shocker. It’s like stepping through some time-portal that sends me back to the good ol’ San Francisco raver days. Better yet, it’s $1 to get in and $2 for a liter of beer. For what it costs to park downtown in SD, I can drink and dance ‘til 3 plus get a decent hotel room. It doesn’t suck either that all the pretty girls want to dance with the gringo.

After a month, all is still very enjoyable. My ticket says I come back on April 16th, but I can’t say I’m committed to that time-line by any means. I really want to work on the clinic, but I can’t fight mother nature (or the Peruvian “mañana” syndrome). We’ll start when we start and I’ll figure it all out later I suppose. Regardless, it’s nice to know that, whenever it is, I’ll at least be returning to a country that is on a much better path then when I left.

Oh… one more thing: Please occasionally check out www.yantalo.org. I’ll be doing a short weekly blog for the foundation there too. It will help to get us a better Internet presence and thus (hopefully) more volunteers.

Muchas gracias.

Ciao!

Acostumbrado

Hola!

All is well in the selva (jungle). Two weeks down and twenty-five to go, but delighted to say that other than y’all (and Sammy), I don’t miss “civilization”. (Okay, a hot shower would be nice.) But life is good to me in Yantalo …and getting better for all.




This week I had the pleasure of working with a couple of dentists, Brent Wager & Renee Duprat, who came down from Vancouver, BC to volunteer their services. In just a few days they managed to do over 250 examinations at the school plus another 20 extractions at the existing excuse for a clinic. I got a crash course in how to fill out dental charts. The exams were fun, but after seeing a couple extractions I opted to go play English teacher instead. But I have the deepest respect for those two for their hard work and patience. They worked long hot hours and put a lot of smiles (yet some toothless) on many faces. Never expected to see a group of kids racing each other to a dental chair, screaming “mi primero!” Just one of many unusual sights here.

In addition to the dentistry we managed to fit in a few pisco sours and a trip up the Rio Mayo. However, my fondest memory would have to be our trip back to Puerto Mirador after the last day at the clinic. The doctor there had offered to give us a ride, so we crammed into his little Carolla and headed down the bumpy road. Well, Fernando (the doctor) is a nice guy, but has a healthy dose of machismo. Therefore his self-image is muy importante. Which made his CD selection even more enjoyable, as it went from Abba, to Air Supply, to Bonnie Tyler, to a Rod Stewart/Bryan Adams duet. Driving down the road with a bunch of crazy gringos screaming “Angel of the Morning”, all he could do was look in the rear view every so often and give us a perplexed smile and a thumb’s up. Certainly one of those silly moments I’d expect on the Playa, but not out here between the rice fields and banana trees.


The “volleyball team” had its first practice this past week as well. Wow! It’s really such a strange situation I don’t know where to begin. In summary, the team is supposed practice at 2:30, but most of the kids go home to eat at 2:00, ‘cause they don’t feed them at school. They all return late, at 3:00 after their meals. The other person I work with is a very nice lady, but a horrible coach. She somehow got her 1940’s volleyball reels mixed in with some of Goebell’s Nazi training flicks. Anyway, she leaves at 4:00, so therefore rushes through practice – with no regard to proper technique or instruction. I’d prefer the two teams train separately, but with only one court it’s not feasible. Of course she doesn’t speak English, but what makes the whole situation somewhat comical is that she talks so fast, even a couple of teachers (all native Spanish speakers) say they have a hard time understanding her. If I’d met her under different circumstances, I’d swear she’d just done half the blow in Peru. Should be an interesting season to say the least.

Spanish is going well and mproving everyday. Necessity is certainly a good motivator. One of my recent projects was translating an English instruction manual for an incubator that was donated. Great practice, but the medical terminology was pretty tricky. Teaching English has also helped get a better knowledge of Spanish grammar, but still lots to learn.

Other than that, not much to report. All is tranquilo. Most nights are spent with a Spanish workbook and iTunes. A couple afternoons a week I head in to Moyo for supplies, laundry, to check out the market or just a change in dining scenery. I often end up at the bar of the Puerta Mirador Hotel, where I can get free wireless. Well, not exactly free, since I pay for drinks, but that’s still pretty efficient in my book. I’ve befriended a few great people there too. Walter is about 70, a friend of the owner, and has this classic Louis Armstrong-in-Spanish voice. Somehow he affords himself the ability to hang out at the hotel, eating and drinking very well. Maybe he gets paid to just sit around, tell stories and hype the hotel’s excellent menu? Then there’s the bartender, Mily, who’s pinch-her-chubby-cheeks cute and pretty smart too. She’s 20 years old, works 6 days a week and goes to school every morning to study math. In a country were most of the girls her age are pregnant with their second kid, I can only hope she can stay focused on her goals and not fall victim to the constant attention which I’m sure she gets. Finally there’s Roberto, who owns the hotel. He lives in Ica, just south of Lima, so he’s not around much. The Canadians and I had a great time celebrating his amiga’s birthday, until he literally had to be carried back to his room by Walter and I. However it was not before Roberto drunkenly gifted us each a bottle of his sacred Pisco Puro, which he distills himself exclusively for the hotel bar and is arguably the best in Peru.

Again, I miss you all, but having an incredible time. I couldn’t recommend the experience highly enough. If you want to get away for a bit (…like really far away), see some amazing sights, and help out a great little community, you’re certainly welcome here. I gotta top bunk I’ll rent for only a cerveza a day. (Payment must be received in advance.)

Best of luck on Election Day. Hopefully I’ll be writing you under much better circumstances next time.

Nos vemos.

Down The Rabbit Hole

Take Off

I wish I could hook you with some witty quote or deeply profound thought about nature, mankind or the meaning of life to begin the anecdotes of my Amazonian escapade. Unfortunately I’m at a loss for words. …At least any that could do justice to what I’ve seen so far. But, I will do my best to share with you my travels, trials and tribulations while in this truly amazing part of the world.

I think, however, I should begin, curbside -- back at Lindbergh Field – where I was overwhelmed by the realization that I am so incredibly lucky to have people like yourselves in my life. Admittedly, I’m a cynical bastard and it is difficult for me to see any real value in most things, (at least that can’t produce hi-fidelity sound), but please know I hold y’all closest to my heart. I know friends never have to say “goodbye”, just “see you later”. Thank you all for your support and sending me off with such comforting and confident feelings.


Lima

I arrived in Lima at 4:20 AM. My first impression could have been better, as I had to threaten my cab driver with police intervention after trying to stick me with an inflated fare to Miraflores. Exhausted, I crashed at the hostel for over 10 hrs upon check-in. Upon consciousness, the closest place I could find a snack was (of course) Starbucks. I then took a long walk to Barranca, an artsy community of Lima. They certainly love their fun here. Everyone in the place was dancing and singing along. The band even played “Hey Jude”’ so I could sing along too. Had my 1st Pisco Sour (the national drink). Very tasty. Had my 2nd Pisco Sour. Mmm. Still just as tasty. (Note to self: Next time, after 2nd Pisco Sour,… STOP.) Got pulled into a cab by 5 Peruvian girls, who dropped me off at my hostel. Truly a great first evening to start I my adventure.

Woke up shortly before my plane to Tarapoto was scheduled to leave -- upon which I was to meet the other volunteers before heading out to the jungle. What I didn’t know, was that in the midst of the night, my stomach and orifices had conspired against me. They mutinied. And as I was crawling back and forth between the bathroom and computer, my plane crept down the runway. I realized at this time that I had no contact information or address of where I was to be staying in the midst of the Amazon. All I knew was that the town is called Yantaló and the name “Wuilman” -- some guy who I was supposed to help with his English. (Oh yeah… airplane food tastes about the same the second time around.)

Despite the initial panic, however, it really couldn’t have worked out better. I managed to find a hotel in Tarapoto for $7 that night. Located a $5 bus to Moyabamba (2 ½ hours drive north). Got a motocab across town - 30¢. Hired a car for a $1 to take me to Yantaló -- 4 miles, but 20 mins away. Found someone who knew Wuilman within 5 mins. Caught up to the others 5 mins later -- less than an hour behind their arrival. Mission accomplished! (Get my flight suit!)

The experience was awesome. Truly an exhilarating challenge: to travel that far, and to such a remote, unknown area, alone. …And without speaking a word of English either. If I could do it again I wouldn’t change a thing. …Well, except for maybe 6 girls in a cab.


Yantalo

So, I’ve finally reached my destination, the small town of Yantalo. It’s a very tiny and poor “district” of 2,800 people, who live mainly on the food they grow and raise. There is one paved street, which encircles the town plaza – fortunately it’s my street, too. A few of the crudely built homes have converted themselves into makeshift storefronts, and sell very basic items like bottled water, bread, rice, and (thank God) soda. The photo below is of the school "cafeteria" (just a woodstove and milk). The people have next to nothing, but sure smile a lot more than we do. They are incredibly welcoming and gracious that I am there to help their community. They are also very curious about our country and customs.

The other members of the Yantaló Foundation are really kind and brilliant people. I’m really excited to work with them in the months to come. Our President, Luis Vasquez, is quite an amazing person. About 70, he’s supposedly a fairly renowned doctor from here, but now living in Chicago. A huge heart and a mind to match. Again, words fail to express the quality. We had 8 people here at first, but are now down to 3, including myself. We have 2 dentists coming down from Canada in a couple days, but by the month’s end I will be here by myself for a while.

We’ve been pretty busy. So far this week I’ve helped to get the school hooked up to the internet (which is the IT testing ground for the clinic), the dental equipment set up at the existing medical facility, and distribute a bunch of donated clothes and supplies. Some of the others focused on school curriculum while a few are concentrating on women’s’ health issues and abuse. Good things are happening here. At least for the moment.

The plans for the new hospital have finally been approved. Unfortunately, the contractor and engineer just decided to postpone the groundbreaking for a few months, because of the coming rainy season. Can’t say it’s not disappointing, but neither was is surprising. Too early to tell how that will effect the length of my stay here. We’ll see what happens on Super Tuesday.

Fortunately, however, I somehow inherited the position of girls volleyball coach. The kids here love the game and play whenever they are not in class. When not at school, they run nets across the narrow dirt streets and play ‘til dark. They’re really good too. I’ve got a few girls who could make any junior high team in San Diego. And they play barefoot on concrete court. I played with them last week, and discovered they only had three balls. So, today I got a ride back to Moyobamba and bought them 10 brand new ones. I can’t wait to see their faces.


I also had the opportunity to take a boat ride up the Rio Mayo (one of the tributaries of the Amazon) to a nature reserve called Tingana. Once there, we got in smaller paddleboats and went further into what translates as an “amphibious jungle.” Didn’t see any monkeys, which they typically do, but the scenery was still quite spectacular. Some crazy looking bugs here, for sure. This is certainly not the place for anyone squeamish about insects.

After one week’s time now, and getting a glimpse of what things are going to be like, I have to say things are good. Despite the delay on the hospital, I think the future will be as fulfilling as it will be adventurous. It’s been continually enlightening from one minute to the next. Definitely a lot to digest. But to wash it all down, I just saw rain fall harder than I’ve ever witnessed in my life. If that’s what’s to come soon, I better start on my arc. The power went out (and is still), just as an equally impressive electrical storm started -- which I could see perfectly from my 2nd story balcony. (The only one in town.) Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, the fireflies came out. The Amazon definitely is extraordinary. I can’t wait to see more…

Ciao!